sometimes you can swap some of the thin washers around or add and subtract to take up any excessive end play. Many times you can coax the housing along with the bearing and as long as you tap lightly and carefully and try not to get the housing cocked, you can quite often move the housing and bearing together until the bearing is off the shaft. One other thing, when moving the bearings along the shaft, first check for any scratches or scoring and remove any rust or high spots with a fine file ana give it a drop of lube before you try to move the bearings, this avoids pulling the bearing half way off, then realizing you should have cleaned the rust off beforehand and now it is stuck part way. I have seen a few that would start intermittently, work one day and not the next, and so I thought I would post this in case the trouble comes back. often a good cleaning, perhaps new bearings is all it takes to make them run like new again. The starting capacitors can fail sometimes too, but the main wear points are the centrifugal switch contacts and the bearings. I have fixed quite a few motors with these same basic proceedure.
DELTA ROCKWELL TABLE SAW THERMAL RESET CRACK
you will need a bearing puller to pull off the bearings from the shaft, sometimes a little ginger coaxing with a brass drift will work ( only drift against the inner race so as to not shock the bearings in their races as those parts are hardened and if they chip or crack it may not be very visible.) sometimes you can get creative and apply equal pressure to both sides of an inner race with two screwdrivers, Just need ot be careful It is much better to borrow a puller proper puller to make sure it comes evenly. If it needs bearings, get the bearing numbers off them and call your local bearing supplier, give them the numbers and see if they have new bearings in stock, normally you can get them for 10 bucks or so. use your rubber or plastic hammer to make sure the ends are seated properly before you snug the bolts again and recheck that it doesn't bind. when tightening the long bolts, spin the shaft with your fingers to make sure it doesn't bind. When you put it backtogether refer to your marks to keep the housing in the same relationship it was before. If it has bushings give them a drop of oil. I have seen some motors with alunimum housings where the bearing needed some shimstock added to make the outside of the bearing fit the housing tightly again. while you have it apart that much you can blow all the sawdust out and feel the bearings and check to see if any of the bearings are loose on the shaft or where the outside of the bearing fits the housing. you might need to shift it a tad further on the shaft or away to make the contacts work properly. Pay attention to how the centrifugal part is locked to the motor shaft. you may see some burned contacts for the start windings and if so they can often be cleaned up by pulling a strip of fine 320 0r so sandpaper through the contacts a bunch of times.
you may not need to completely disassemble, try to get to the centrifugal switch to see if it is sticking. If you switch it on and it hums but won't spin, mark the housing relationship, then remove the long end bolts and tap it apart with a plastic hammer. as noted it may not have a red button but a thermal relay that could close on it's own, be cautious that the motor doesn't start unexpectedly and catch you off guard!! If it was running and cut out then I would look to the thermal relay, see if it has a reset button, if so let it cool and try to push the buton in.